Montelbaanstoren: Amsterdam's Leaning Tower on the Oudeschans Canal

What Is the Montelbaanstoren?

The Montelbaanstoren is a medieval watchtower rising above the Oudeschans canal in Amsterdam's historic eastern harbour district. It was constructed around 1516 and 1517 as part of the city's defensive fortifications, positioned to guard the Lastage shipbuilding and trading quarter against attack from the waterside. Today it is a rijksmonument, a nationally designated heritage monument, and one of the few surviving fragments of Amsterdam's original city wall system.

The tower is not open to the public in the usual sense. It functions as office space and there are no regular visiting hours or entrance tickets. What you come for is the exterior: a tall, slightly tilting structure that reads almost like a Renaissance illustration of a Dutch tower, sitting at the junction of the Oudeschans canal and the Oude Waal, framed by houseboats and leaning gables.

A Short History: From Cannon Platform to Clock Tower

When it was first built, the Montelbaanstoren was a squat, functional military structure with no upper tower. It formed part of Amsterdam's eastern fortifications, protecting the harbour and the adjacent Lastage area where ships were built and repaired. The name is believed to derive from 'Monte Albano,' a reference that appeared in early city records, though the exact etymology is debated.

The tower's character changed dramatically in 1606, when the city commissioned the architect Hendrick de Keyser to add a decorative upper section. De Keyser, who also designed the Westerkerk and several other Amsterdam landmarks, gave the Montelbaanstoren an octagonal base, a lantern stage, and a wooden spire clad in lead. The result transformed a utilitarian gun platform into one of the most recognisable silhouettes on the Amsterdam waterfront.

The clock and carillon bells added to the tower quickly earned a local nickname: 'Malle Jaap,' meaning roughly 'Crazy Jaap.' The bells rang at irregular intervals, and residents in the surrounding Lastage district complained that the chimes bore little relation to the actual time. The nickname stuck and is still used today.

The tower leans noticeably, a tilt that has been documented since the early 17th century and is caused by Amsterdam's famously soft, marshy subsoil. If you stand on the quayside and look carefully at the spire, the lean is visible to the naked eye. The city designated the Montelbaanstoren a rijksmonument in 1970. For more on Amsterdam's architectural character and how layers of building from different centuries sit side by side, see the Amsterdam architecture guide.

Visiting in Practice: What You'll Actually See

The tower stands at Oudeschans 2, at the point where the Oudeschans canal meets the Waalseilandsgracht. The best vantage point is from the bridge or quayside on the western bank of the Oudeschans, which puts the full tower in frame with the canal water and the houseboats moored below. From here the lean of the spire is obvious, and the contrast between the plain 16th-century base and De Keyser's elaborate upper section is clear.

The immediate area is quiet by Amsterdam standards. The Lastage district sits just east of the more visited parts of De Wallen, and the streets around the Oudeschans have a slower pace, with fewer tourist shops and more ordinary street life. The canal here is narrow enough that sounds carry across the water: the creak of moored houseboats, passing cycling bells, occasional boat engines.

The surrounding streets and quays are level, paved city footpaths, accessible to wheelchair users and anyone with limited mobility. Viewing the exterior requires no stairs or physical effort.

Morning, Afternoon, and Evening: How the Tower Changes

In the early morning, before 9am, the Oudeschans is genuinely calm. The low northern light catches the brickwork of the base tower and the lead-clad spire, and the canal surface reflects the whole structure without the movement that later boat traffic creates. Cyclists pass on the bridges but the quayside is mostly empty. This is the best time for photography if you want clean lines and no crowds.

By midday the area sees more foot traffic from people walking between Nieuwmarkt and the eastern docks or following canal cruise routes. The tower draws attention but rarely a crowd, as most visitors are passing through rather than stopping deliberately. In summer, the longer daylight and higher sun flatten some of the texture in photographs, though the evening light recovers this.

At dusk and into the evening the tower is lit from below, and the spire appears to glow against the darkening sky. The reflection in the canal is particularly good in still weather. In winter, when sunset comes early, this effect is easy to catch even on a short visit. Rain is not necessarily a problem: the glazed surface of the lead spire picks up overcast light in an interesting way, and the empty quayside makes for uncluttered images.

Getting There

The Montelbaanstoren is around a 10–15-minute walk from Amsterdam Centraal station. Head south from the station, cross the Prins Hendrikkade, continue through the narrow streets toward Nieuwmarkt, and then follow the Oudeschans canal southeast. The tower appears at the end of the canal, visible from some distance.

You can also reach it from Nieuwmarkt itself, which is served by metro lines 51, 52, 53, and 54. From Nieuwmarkt square, walk east along Sint Antoniesbreestraat and then turn toward the Oudeschans. The whole area forms part of a natural route through De Wallen and the old city centre, and the tower fits easily into a longer walking morning.

Many canal cruise routes pass the Montelbaanstoren on their way through the eastern harbour area. If you are considering a boat trip, it is one of the landmarks that appears on routes covering the IJ and the older canals. See the Amsterdam canal cruise guide for route options.

The Neighbourhood Around the Tower

The Lastage district that surrounds the Montelbaanstoren was historically one of Amsterdam's working harbour quarters, outside the city walls and home to shipbuilders, rope-makers, and sailors. It sits between the more famous canal ring to the west and the Jewish Historical Quarter to the south and east, and it has a character distinct from both.

A short walk south of the tower brings you to the Waterlooplein area and the Waterlooplein Market, Amsterdam's large outdoor flea market. North along the Oudeschans you can connect toward Nieuwmarkt and the Nieuwmarkt square, which has its own historic gatehouse and a Saturday organic market. The combination of the tower, the canal walk, and one of these stops makes for a satisfying half-morning without entering a single building or spending anything beyond coffee.

The streets directly around the tower are not heavily commercial. There are some local cafes along the Oudeschans, and the quaysides have benches facing the water. If you want a spot to sit and look at the tower without committing to anything, the benches just north of bridge 280 are the obvious choice.

Photography and Practical Notes

The Montelbaanstoren is one of the more photogenic structures in Amsterdam, precisely because it sits at a canal junction with open sky around it. A 24mm to 35mm lens equivalent on any camera system captures the full tower with canal context. A longer focal length from further down the Oudeschans compresses the canal and tower nicely, with houseboats layered in the foreground.

In winter the bare trees along the quayside open the sight lines further. In summer, the foliage frames the tower but can obscure the lower half. Drone flight in this part of the city is subject to restrictions and generally requires permits; check current regulations before attempting aerial photography.

If you are covering multiple sites in the area in a single day, consider using the Amsterdam City Card for transport and museum access, though the tower itself will not require it. Combining the Montelbaanstoren with nearby paid attractions like the Jewish Historical Museum makes practical sense given the proximity.