Paisaje Lunar: Tenerife's Otherworldly Lunar Landscape

What Paisaje Lunar Actually Looks Like

Paisaje Lunar, also known as Los Escurriales, is a cluster of conical white pumice formations and eroded volcanic chimneys perched inside the Corona Forestal natural park, at an elevation of roughly 1,950–1,970 metres on the southern slopes of Tenerife. The spires range from knee-height to several metres tall, and their pale cream and grey colouring contrasts so sharply against the surrounding Canarian pine forest that the effect is genuinely disorienting. You have been walking through fragrant pine shade for hours, and then the trees thin out and this pale, alien terrain simply appears.

The formations were created by volcanic eruptions that deposited layers of pumice, which subsequent millennia of rain and wind eroded into their current shapes. The rock is soft and lightly textured, almost chalky in appearance, and it crumbles if you grip it. The ground around the spires is loose pale grit that crunches underfoot and contrasts with the rust-red volcanic soil you cross earlier on the trail. On a bright morning, the light hitting the white formations against a deep blue sky is the kind of scene that explains why this place appears on every list of unusual things to see in Tenerife.

Getting There: Trail Options and the Route from Vilaflor

There is no road access to Paisaje Lunar itself. You reach it on foot, and the most commonly used route is the PR-TF 72, a circular trail that begins at the Plaza de la Iglesia (San Pedro Apóstol) in Vilaflor de Chasna, one of the highest villages in the Canary Islands, sitting at around 1,400 metres above sea level. The full loop is approximately 13 km with a cumulative altitude difference of around 700–800 metres, making it a serious undertaking. Budget six to eight hours for a comfortable pace with time spent at the formations.

An alternative approach follows sections of the GR-131 and PR-TF 83.1 from the TF-21 road near the Madre del Agua area, which can shorten the approach for those arriving by car. If you are driving, the TF-21 is the main road through Vilaflor heading towards the national park boundary, and there is parking available in the village. Driving gives you significantly more flexibility with start times, which matters a great deal for this route.

If you rely on public transport, TITSA bus line 482 connects Los Cristianos to Vilaflor, and line 474 runs from Granadilla. Both are infrequent, so check the current TITSA timetable before committing to this approach — the last bus back from Vilaflor is early enough that a slow hiker could miss it.

The trail from Vilaflor follows sections of the historic Camino de Chasna, a traditional path that has served as a trans-island route for over 500 years, connecting the southern coast to the interior highlands. Walking it gives the outing a context beyond the geological spectacle at the end. For more background on how trails like this fit into the island's hiking network, the hiking in Tenerife guide covers route grades, trail marking conventions, and what to expect from mountain conditions across the island.

How the Experience Changes Through the Day

Start before 8 a.m. if you can. The lower pine forest section of the PR-TF 72 is genuinely pleasant in the early morning: cool air carrying the sharp, resinous scent of Canarian pine, bird calls cutting through the quiet, and very few other people on the trail. The path is well-marked with red and white PR waymarkers, but navigation requires attention in a few spots where erosion has altered the ground.

By mid-morning, the sun is well above the ridgeline and the pale pumice formations reflect heat noticeably. The Lunar Landscape itself sits in an exposed position with minimal shade, so arriving at the formations in the cooler late morning, rather than the peak afternoon heat, makes a meaningful difference in comfort. The light for photography is also better before midday — harsh overhead sun flattens the texture of the spires, while lower-angle morning light throws them into three-dimensional relief.

Cloud behaviour at this altitude deserves attention. The Corona Forestal sits in the zone where Atlantic clouds frequently bank against the higher terrain, and it is not unusual to arrive at the formations shrouded in mist. On those days, the lunar landscape takes on an altogether different atmosphere: the pale shapes emerge from grey fog, visibility contracts, and the pine forest below disappears. Whether you find this dramatic or disappointing depends on your expectations. On clear days in summer, you can see the southern coast far below, with the Atlantic glittering in the distance.

Geological and Cultural Context

The formations at Paisaje Lunar are the product of two forces working in sequence: volcanic deposition and atmospheric erosion. Past eruptions layered thick sheets of light-coloured pumice across the upper slopes of the southern massif. Over thousands of years, rain and wind carved channels through this soft rock, leaving behind the conical spires and ridges visible today. The result is structurally similar to the 'hoodoo' formations found in places like Cappadocia or parts of the American Southwest, though formed through a slightly different sequence of events.

The broader volcanic landscape that produces formations like Paisaje Lunar is the same geological story that built Mount Teide and the surrounding caldera. Teide National Park, which borders the Corona Forestal to the north, contains its own striking erosional formations at the Roques de García — a useful comparison point if you want to understand how the same volcanic substrates produce different surface textures across the island's altitude bands.

The Camino de Chasna route that connects Paisaje Lunar to Vilaflor is one of the island's significant historic pathways, used historically for trade and movement between the coast and the high interior. Vilaflor itself, sitting at around 1,400 metres, was historically an important waypoint on this route. For further context on the island's network of protected natural spaces, the Teide National Park area guide provides useful overview information on how the various zones relate to each other.

What to Bring and How to Prepare

This is a mountain hike at altitude, not a woodland stroll. The terrain is uneven volcanic rock and loose pumice grit, with significant elevation change throughout. Proper footwear means trail-running shoes at minimum, or hiking boots for those less confident on loose ground. Trekking poles are useful on the descent sections, where the grit can be slippery.

Clothing should account for the altitude. Vilaflor can feel warm in the morning sun, but at 2,000 metres the temperature drops quickly when clouds move in, and the wind on exposed ridgelines is cold regardless of the season. Pack a light windproof or fleece that you can remove easily. Sun protection is essential — at this altitude, UV intensity is high even when temperatures feel mild, and the pale pumice formations reflect light upward.

• Minimum 2–3 litres of water per person (no sources on route)
• High-energy snacks and a proper lunch — the route takes most of the day
• Trail shoes or hiking boots with grip on loose ground
• Windproof layer and sun protection (hat, sunscreen, sunglasses)
• Fully charged phone with an offline map downloaded (coverage can be patchy)
• Check current trail conditions with the Cabildo de Tenerife before setting out — trails may close after heavy rain

Photography at Paisaje Lunar

The formations are photogenic almost regardless of conditions, but the best images come from early morning when the sun is low and casts long shadows across the textured pumice surface. Wide-angle lenses emphasise the scale of the spires against the sky or the surrounding pine canopy. Getting low to the ground and shooting upward against the sky gives the formations a more dramatic silhouette than shooting from standing height.

On misty days, a longer focal length can isolate individual spires against the grey background for a moody, minimalist result. The pale colour of the pumice means automatic exposure can underexpose slightly — dial in a small positive exposure compensation if shooting in automatic mode. Drone use within the Corona Forestal natural park is regulated; check current rules from the Cabildo de Tenerife before flying.

Clear-Eyed Take: Is It Worth the Effort?

Yes, for the right visitor. Paisaje Lunar is genuinely unlike anything else on the island. The combination of the historic Camino de Chasna trail, the pine forest, and the surreal white formations at the end makes for a full and satisfying day out that few other Tenerife hikes can match for variety and visual impact.

However, it demands a real commitment in terms of fitness, time, and preparation. Anyone who finds a 13 km mountain day with around 700–800 metres of climb daunting should not attempt this hike. There are no shortcuts and no easy bail-out points once you are deep in the forest. If you want geological drama with less physical effort, the Roques de García in Teide National Park are accessible by car and provide a very different but equally striking volcanic landscape.

It is also worth noting that on overcast days, particularly when the cloud layer sits at the formation's altitude, the experience is considerably less spectacular. If you are only in Tenerife for a few days, this is a hike to save for a morning when the forecast is clear. The payoff on a clear day is substantial; on a cloudy one, you have walked a very long way into the forest for limited reward.